Thursday, 8 March 2012

The history of the past, present and future at PFW F12

Now when the last but definitely not the least Fashion Week in the row of FW’s Fall 12 is officially over and the excitement with the slightest taste of insanity about it is yet vaguely to be found in the air, I draw the line under the most remarkable and memorable shows. I bow my head with deep respect for the men of great genius: Mr. Lagerfeld, Mr Jacobs, Mr. Pilati and Mr. Elbaz. However they did not conquer my heart this season, even though I did marvel at the magnificent train car at the Louis Vuitton show.

It seemed to me that a lot of designers took this season's inspiration from history, the history of the past, present and future. Olivier Rousteing's projected tsaristic Russia into the geometrical forms of contemporaneity. I truly adore rich velvets and detailed Fabergé egg-style embroideries in thousands of pearls and crystals.
At Valentino Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli referred to folklore to recreate authentic native motives. Geometrical and floral patterns both remind me of the somehow naïve but doubtlessly beautiful traditional Slavic dresses.
Nina Ricci's Peter Copping’s collection brought in mind a picture of wet Parisian streets in the 20s of the last century. Negligee alike slip dresses with lowered waists are provocative and innocent at once.

Sara Burton looked into the bright future of Alexander McQueen’s women which like flowers of Japanese sakura go through the seasons' transformation in silent beauty.
And the Celine collection brought us back to the present, the one and only present there ever could be…the present created by Phoebe Philo.
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Сейчас, когда последняя неделя в череде Недель Мод Сезон Осень 2012 подошел к концу, когда восхищение с лёгким привкусом одурения все еще летает в воздухе, я подвожу итоги самых впечатляющих и наиболее запоминающихся, на мой взгляд, коллекций. Снимаю шляпу и преклоняю голову в глубоком почтении перед гениями г-на Лагерфельда, г-на Джейкобса, г-на Пилати и г-на Эльба. Однако им не удалось завоевать мое сердце и воображение в этот раз, хотя я искренне восхитилась старомодным поездом, воссозданным на подиуме во время показа коллекции Louis Vuitton.

Сложилось такое ощущение, что многие дизайнеры, создавая осенние коллекции, черпали вдохновение из истории, истории прошлого, настоящего и будущего.
Оливье Рустеинг (Balmain) спроектировал царскую Россию на геометрические формы современности. Я не могу передать, какое глубокое впечатление на меня произвели глухие вельветовые ткани и вышивка кристаллами и жемчугом а-ля яйца Фаберже.
Креативные директоры дома Valentino Мариа Чиури и Пьер Пиккиоли обратились к фольклору и воспроизвели национальные мотивы. Геометрические и цветочные узоры напоминают мне в чем-то наивные, но бесспорно прекрасные славянские одежды.
Коллекция Питера Коппинга (Nina Ricci) родила в воображении картинку: мокрые улицы Парижа конца 20ых годов прошлого века. Похожие на неглиже платья одновременно провокационы и нежны.

Сара Бартон в свою очередь заглянула в будущее девушек McQueen, которые, как цветы японской сакуры, в беззвучной красоте преображаются с течением времени и сменой сезонов.

Коллекция дома Celine вернула нас в настоящее, в единственное возможное настоящее, настоящее, созданное Фиби Фило.

Balmain
Valentino
Nina Ricci
Alexander McQueen
Celine


22 comments:

  1. beautiful post, i couldn't agree more with your descriptions especially the nina ricci collection was amazing, your comment about the nina ricci dresses being provocative and innocent at once its so true!!

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  2. With all due respect for Karl Lagerfeld's work at Chanel, this collection was not his best one, to say the least. As for Marc Jacobs, I'm sorry, but I've always said that he is a much better marketing man than talented designer (although it was a LV collection I loved, the Fall 2010 one). The collection I loved the most during these fashion weeks was Haider Ackermann. xo
    Ada

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  3. amazingg!! I have to agree that louis killed it

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  4. I love these collections!! ...except for maybe Celine - not sure how I feel about that one <3 hautepinkpretty.com

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  5. I so agree with you about everything. Great post, it was a great read. :)
    Much love, gabriele. xx

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  6. С 8 марта тебя! Цвети и пахни как весна!)))

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  7. my favourite is the wonderful collection from Balmain. stunning patterns, shapes and colours. every item looks perfect. and I really enjoyed reading your article. very well written, as always :)

    Maiken/
    Maikeni blogi - part of me

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  8. Hi Sweety,
    I found your blog by chance, while peeking others and I decided to check it out! I’m glad I did it, because I am really delighted with yours. It's beautiful, well structured, interesting, sweet amazing... If you love mine too,I'd like to invite you to follow mine . I’d be very pleased.,,,Then I'll follow you back!!!

    www.thechicetoile.com

    kisses,Francesca

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  9. I love the collections of Balmain, Carven, Lanvin, and Celine.

    The Nina Ricci collection is superb and makes me feel all romantic + fluttery inside :)
    I really love the way you described the collection... very right on!

    I especially adore how you described the McQueen collection: "which like flowers of Japanese sakura go through the seasons' transformation in silent beauty." You are a true poet, in terms of writing! (I'm an aspiring fashion journalist and I have to say, I definitely have a few things to learn from you.) ;)

    By the way, I really loved Lagerfeld's Indian collection for Chanel as well. The turbans on the male models were exquisite (esp. with the brooch on it) as well as the "palace" like environment/staging of the show.

    Also, I will miss Pilati, however I can't wait to see what Slimane does with the house of YSL. Personally, I'd like to see more color in the collections. What's your take?

    Just one more thing--you should try adding hyperlinks to your blog's written text, so it would be far more intriguing to know what collection your talking about (re: Olivier Rousteing) or certain elements of what you're writing (to make it easier for the uninformed reader). Just letting you know, since that's the beauty of the Internet (mass information).

    Either way, I adore your writing skills and I can't wait to read more of your thoughts in regard to the fashion trends, shows, and the industry overall. :)

    --

    Elvia
    http://the-new-outlet.blogspot.com/

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    Replies
    1. Dear Elvia,

      Thank you so much for your comment! I can't even express how nice is it to hear words like these from a journalist! It means seriously so much for me! As well thanks for writing your opinion about the collection. I am always super delighted and happy to read what the other people and followers of my blog think about the topic I discuss.
      And of course thank you for the tips! I definitely should check hyperlinks out. It's a great piece of advice!
      Thank you again for your beautiful words and support!

      Love,

      Alexandra

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  10. Brilliantly reviewed hun! I loved the drama at McQueen, the subtlety at Nina Ricci and Valentino and Balmain for pure rock chick glam.

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  11. I have tagged you in my 11 questions post (: oxoxox

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  12. Valentino and Nina Ricci are our favorite :)

    Check out our blog

    http://sopoani.blogspot.com/

    Kisses Sophie and Anna :)

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  13. очень точно подмечено) насчет каждой коллекции
    я в востогре от нины риччи и от того, что сотворила фиби фило

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  14. love Alexander McQueen!

    http://rueoh.blogspot.com/

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  15. Totally agree :) russian red is simply awesome! ♥

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  16. you could totally be a fashion journalist - you're so good at writing about it! i really enjoy reading your thoughts about trends, different collections etc. your reviews are always very professionally written, therefore very enjoyable

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  17. Paris fashion week was definitely the most exciting this season. There was so many looks and collections to fall in love with. x

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  18. Должен признаться, мне очень понравилась коллекция Nina Ricci: приятное сочетание цветов, некий шарм, море женственности. Что касается Celine: здесь присутствие чувства "fashion", желание удивить, но не шокировать, для тех, кто больше предан моде, а не стилю.

    Хоть я и являюсь огромным поклонником творчества дома McQueen, коллекция этого сезона показалась мне немного предсказуемой. Дело в том, что главная черта, которой славился этот дом и являлась непредсказуемость. В этом сезоне коллекция не явилась для меня большим удивлением.

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